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Nicole's Take: Cover your vegetable garden any night the forecast calls for 32°F or lower, and start watching closely once it dips into the mid-30s. Frost can settle on leaves on clear, calm nights even when the air stays a few degrees above freezing. After gardening through Houston summers, Chicago winters, and Nashville's in-between seasons, I also reach for covers when summer temps climb past 90°F, and on the very day I plant greens to keep pests out.
At a Glance
- Cover tender crops like tomatoes, peppers, and basil any night the forecast drops to 32°F, and cover even hardy greens once it hits the mid-20s.
- Shade cloth gives cool- and warm-season crops relief once summer temps regularly top 90°F.
- For pest protection, put covers on the day you sow or plant, not after you spot damage.
By Nicole Johnsey Burke: Founder of Gardenary & Author of Kitchen Garden Revival
The Frost Disaster That Made Me a Garden Cover Believer
You’ve heard the saying “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” In the garden, I’d measure prevention in yards. Yards of garden cover fabric, that is.
It took me a few years of gardening (and one heartbreaking fall frost) to realize how much a couple of yards of fabric could do.
I saw the forecast dip to 31°F and figured my garden could tough out one cold night. The next morning, my tomatoes were limp and blackened, and my basil had turned to mush. Weeks of harvest, gone overnight, all because I skipped five minutes of tucking in my beds.
If cold weather, heat, or pests have taken a toll on your plants, garden covers may be the thing your organic garden needs.
So when exactly should you cover your plants? Let’s walk through it, whether you’re braving the cold, surviving the heat, or fighting pests.
Cover For Cold Weather
What Temperature Should You Cover Your Plants for Frost?
Cover tender plants any night the forecast calls for 32°F or lower. On clear, calm nights, frost can form on leaves even at 33°F to 36°F, so I start paying attention once lows hit the mid-30s.
Not sure when frost usually arrives where you live? Look up your dates in seconds with the Gardenary Frost Date Calculator.
Here's my quick guide for deciding what to cover tonight:
Overnight Low | What Happens | What to Cover |
|---|---|---|
33°F to 36°F (clear, calm night) | Frost can form on leaves | Tender seedlings and warm-season crops |
29°F to 32°F (light freeze) | Tender plants are killed | |
25°F to 28°F (moderate freeze) | Most plants are damaged | Everything, including lettuce, beets, carrots, and broccoli. Double up your frost cloth. |
24°F and below (severe freeze) | Heavy damage to most plants | Even kale and cabbage. Add hoops and a second layer, or harvest first. |
Your Winter Garden Plan
A printed, step-by-step planner for gardens that dip to 34°F and below
- Know exactly what to plant, tend, and harvest each week
- Stay organized and consistent through the coldest months
- Built for gardens that regularly dip to 34°F and below
Light Freeze (29°F to 32°F)
A light freeze is enough to kill tender plants. That includes most of our favorite fruiting plants, like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash. Hardy greens like lettuce, kale, spinach, and Swiss chard usually come through just fine.
For a light freeze, a floating row cover, frost cloth, or even old sheets will do the job. A few tips:
- Drape it to the ground. The cover traps heat rising from the soil, so it needs to reach all the way down.
- Weigh it down with landscape pins, bricks, or rocks.
- Keep it dry. Wet fabric can actually make plants colder.
- Pull it off in the morning so the soil can soak up the sun's heat again.
In Houston, I used frost cloth whenever temps dipped below freezing for a night or two. After those cold snaps, the weather would often stay above freezing for weeks. Taking five minutes to cover my garden before nightfall bought me weeks of extra harvests.
Moderate Freeze (25°F to 28°F)
A moderate freeze damages most garden plants, so this is when I take a few extra steps:
- Cover everything, including semi-hardy crops like lettuce, beets, carrots, and broccoli.
- Double up your frost cloth. Two layers give noticeably more protection than one.
- Water the soil earlier in the day. Moist soil holds more heat than dry soil and releases it slowly overnight, so your plants stay cozier under their covers.
- Add compost around the base of your plants. I'm not a fan of mulch in the vegetable garden, so I use compost instead to help hold the soil's warmth.
Severe Freeze (24°F and Below)
This is what we call a killing freeze. When one's in the forecast, cover every plant in your garden, even frost-hardy ones like kale and cabbage.
- Layer up. Add a plastic tarp over your frost cloth or blankets. Use garden hoops so the plastic never touches your plants.
- Try sturdier covers. Garden cloches, cold frames, or burlap all work well.
- Seal the edges. Covers only work if they reach the ground and trap the soil's heat. If your bed has a top trim like the Gardenary Cedar Raised Garden Beds with Trim, you can clamp frost cloth right to the edge so it stays put on windy nights.
- Harvest what you can. If a long hard freeze is coming, I'd rather bring in a big basket of greens than gamble on them.
Kitchen Garden Revival
Kitchen Garden Revival is your invitation to ditch the messy, high-maintenance veggie patch and step into a new way of gardening, one that’s elegant, organized, and endlessly rewarding.

When Will Frost Hit Your Garden?
Look up your average first and last frost dates so you know exactly when to have your covers ready.
*Based on historical climate data from NOAA, only zip codes from United States are supported.
Cover For Heat & Sun
When to Use Shade Cloth in Your Vegetable Garden
Long before I lived in Chicago (a climate that might as well have been the Arctic, as far as I was concerned), I gardened in the complete opposite down in Houston. There, I had to protect my plants from extreme heat and sun through Texas's long, brutal summers.
Sunlight is critical for a productive garden, but there's such a thing as too much. Fruiting plants like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers prefer temps between 65°F and 85°F. Push past that for too long, and you'll start to see:
- Wilting leaves, even after watering
- Sunscald on fruit
- Soil that dries out completely by afternoon
- Cool-season crops like lettuce and spinach bolting (going to seed)
When temperatures regularly climb above 90°F, shade cloth is my go-to way to protect the garden.
It filters out a percentage of the sun's rays and keeps the soil several degrees cooler. You don't want to block the light completely, just give your plants some relief. For most vegetables, a 30 to 50 percent shade cloth is plenty.
It also helps to water deeply at the roots, which usually means every morning during a heat wave.
Cover For Pests
When to Cover Plants to Keep Pests Out (Hint: Day One)
Remember those cabbage loopers? Hundreds of little green caterpillars decimated my salad garden.
Chemical pesticides were the last thing I wanted on my homegrown lettuce (the wriggling pests were a close second to last), but there were too many to pick off by hand. So I cleared the bed and started over. This time, I covered my lettuce seeds with garden mesh the very day I sowed them.
That cover made all the difference. The trick is putting it on the moment you plant, not weeks later when you spot your first squishy caterpillar hanging out under a leaf.
What to Use for Each Kind of Pest
- Aphids, caterpillars, and beetles: floating row cover, garden mesh (also called ag fabric), or even inexpensive tulle from the fabric store.
- Squirrels, birds, and moles: fencing, thicker netting, or hardware cloth.
The goal is never to harm wildlife. It's just to make sure you get to your harvest before they do!
Which Crops to Cover
Covers work best for leafy greens, kale, cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower. Fruiting plants like cucumbers and squash can be covered too, but they need bees and butterflies for pollination. Covers keep the good bugs out along with the bad, so lift them during the day once flowers appear and pin them back down at night.
Learn more about using garden mesh for organic pest control. If pests are your biggest frustration, my Organic Pest Control Course walks you through the calm, prevention-first approach I use in every garden.

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Organic Pest Control Made Simple
No harsh sprays. No endless guessing. Just a thriving, abundant garden that practically protects itself. With the Organic Pest Control Method, you’ll learn Nicole Burke's exact steps to grow naturally and confidently, season after season.
When to Put Covers On and When to Take Them Off
Knowing when to cover and uncover takes a little practice. Here's the rhythm I follow.
For Frost
- Cover in the late afternoon, before sunset, to trap the heat that built up in the soil all day.
- Uncover the next morning once temperatures climb back above freezing.
- Know your fabric. Lightweight floating row cover can stay on for several days during a cold snap, since it lets light through. Blankets, tarps, and plastic should come off every day.
For Plastic Covers
Always vent them on sunny days. Temperatures under closed plastic can soar in just an hour of sun. Trust me, I've cooked a few seedlings learning this one.
For Heat
Put shade cloth up by mid-morning and leave it through the hottest part of the day. You can take it down in the evening or leave it up for the whole heat wave.
For Pests
Small insects usually call for continuous coverage from planting to harvest. Larger pests may only need temporary barriers. I've found that squirrels get bolder during the hotter, drier parts of the season, so that's when my netting goes up.
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How Covers Stretch Your Growing Season on Both Ends
Covering your vegetable garden is one of the simplest organic strategies I know. It protects you from everything from a scorching summer to hungry, hungry cabbage loopers.
With the right cover, you can plant earlier in spring, harvest later into fall, and maybe even keep growing through the extremes of summer and winter. And if pests have been stressing you out, covers can be your saving grace. You'll be happier, your plants will be healthier, and you'll get to pick your tomatoes before the squirrels do.
We focused here on when to use covers. For the different types of covers and how to install them, check out my complete guide to garden covers and my guide to protecting plants from frost. If you're ready to set up a garden that's productive in every season, Kitchen Garden Academy walks you through it step by step.
Here's to longer growing seasons and fewer garden pests!


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Garden Cover FAQs
Do I need to cover my plants tonight?
Should I cover my plants at 40 degrees?
Usually not. At 40°F, most vegetables are safe. The exception is a clear, still night in a low spot where cold air settles. If that sounds like your garden, cover tender seedlings just to be safe.
What temperature should I cover my tomato plants?
Cover tomatoes any time the forecast calls for 35°F or lower. They're frost tender, so even a light frost can damage leaves and fruit. Get the cover on before sunset to trap the day's warmth in the soil.
Does covering plants with sheets help?
Yes. An old sheet gives about the same protection as a lightweight row cover, roughly 2°F. Drape it all the way to the ground, keep it dry, and remove it in the morning.
When should I uncover my plants after a freeze?
Uncover once temperatures rise above freezing the next morning, usually by mid-morning. Leaving heavy covers on all day can overheat your plants and keeps the soil from recharging its warmth.
How long can you keep plants covered during a freeze?
Floating row cover lets light through, so it can stay on for several days during a cold snap. Blankets, tarps, and plastic should come off during the day and go back on before sunset.
What's the best raised bed for using frost cloth and garden covers?
I love the Gardenary Cedar Raised Garden Beds with Trim because the top trim gives you an easy place to clamp frost cloth, shade cloth, or garden mesh. Covers stay tight even on windy nights, and the untreated cedar holds up season after season.
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Sources
- Frost Protection and Extending the Growing Season (Colorado State University Extension)
- Cold Protection Options for Growing Fruit and Vegetables Throughout the Winter (University of Georgia Extension)
- Freeze/Frost Data (Western Regional Climate Center)

